Ceramic Dictionary

by Susan Mussi

MAJOLICA: 1 - The order of filing.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 1 - Fitxer de dades

es: MAYÓLICA: 1 – Fichero de datos

As the majolica method is so long it is split into sections which are filed alphabetically in the dictionary. The history and the process of painting tiles, plates, jars and lids are explained here and are numbered so they fall into the correct order of working. After this come sections which apply to this method with the first word Majolica and with letter so they fall into the order of working.

The sections 5a to 5d covers tiles and the sections 6a to 6f plates, jars and lids and in each section is a synopsis on everything, from their bisque state to being fired and you click on any word in red you go directly into that section.

MAJOLICA: 2a - History

ca: MAJÒLICA: 2a - Història

es: MAYÓLICA: 2a – Historia

The Arabs conquered Spain in 714 AD, but the technical knowledge about ceramic decorating did not reach it until three centuries later. It is believed that it started at the beginning of the 9th century in Iraq, in the towns of Basra and Chuff. In the 9th century, in Samarra, a town one hundred and fifty kilometers from Baghdad, they began producing large quantities. Their work was exported to Algeria, to the West, and Persia, to the East, where remains of it have been found.

In 969 AD, the Fatimids, whose capital was near Kairouan, now Tunisia, conquered Fustat, where they ruled for two hundred years and completely rebuilt the town. Fustat is the old name for Cairo, Egypt. It became a central crossroad for the Arab world. With Persia and Arabia on one side, the Mediterranean Africa on the other, and the neck of the Nile as a port to the Mediterranean and the rest of Europe, Fustat became an important town and provided work for craftsmen and artisans. A great deal of high-standard work was made and exported. It is believed it was from there that it moved on to begin in Europe starting in Malaga, which was then the main port for Islamic Spain, whose capital was Granada.

With the continuous wars during the Fatimid occupation in the 10th and 11th centuries, the craftsmen of Fustat were forced to move elsewhere to maintain their livelihood. The siege of 1169 AD resulted in the destruction of the town and the collapse of the Fatimid dynasty. The craftsmen lost their patrons and by the end of the 12th century the tradition had virtually disappeared. It is thought it could have been brought to Malaga from Egypt, by way of the Muslim settlements in the Mediterranean islands, which were on the trade route between both. Majorca was one of them and it is believed is where the name came from.

Boabdil, the last Arab ruler, was eight years old when he became the leader of the Arab kingdom in Spain. This was the start of the Arab settlements, economic decline and with it the ceramic industry of Malaga. It had already spread to Valencia, the earliest record of it being made in Manises, Valencia. By the end of the 14th century, it had become a flourishing industry, still using the same production methods and the traditional Arab scripts and symbolism for decoration.

It started to be made in other towns, such as Talavera and Barcelona. The trade was in the hands of the local merchants, but Moorish craftsmen, who had moved from Andalusia to live and work in the peaceful and prosperous Christian kingdoms made this possible. The number of makers increased, as it was now being made not only for the wealthy families, but also for merchants, townspeople, religious communities, and was exported to the Mediterranean and the Low Countries. With this expansion, the Moorish traditions in decoration were gradually changing and being replaced with Christian motives. Early red-gold ware was gradually changing with the increase in production and cheaper materials, the colors could now be made without valuable metals. Plates, pots, tiles for walls, floors, and ceilings were all being produced with blue, a popular and predominant color.

Tiles in churches and private houses started to show figurative conventions It became an illustrated method of informing the illiterate public, decorations on church walls told Bible stories; chemist’s pots were decorated with plants and their Latin names; craftsmen and workmen doing everyday jobs were depicted; tiles showed the process of making wine, bread, oil, and many other specialties.

Then, in 1492, came the re-conquest and the Muslims became the alien minority in Spain. From then on until 1609, with the Inquisition, the entire Muslim population was banished. This affected families who had worked for centuries in carving, leather, iron-work, building, pottery, and every other craft. With this loss and competition from other countries, the ceramic industry in Spain was greatly affected.

The Majolica method started to be produced in Italy in the 15th century in the towns of Deruta and Gubbio and it became known as Maiolica; this change in spelling is was because “j” did not exist in the Italian language. To start with, it was greatly influenced by the Valencia style, leaving the background white, using similar figures, animals and borders, but they gradually developed, creating beautifully different designs and colors. Using a dark background and the colors in a much more subtle way, the Italians became perfectionists in their work, in contrast to the more free and liberal brush-strokes used in Spain. It spread to other parts of Europe in the 16th century: Holland where it was known as Delft, France as Faience and then to England in the 17th century, where it lasted about one hundred and fifty years and was known by the name of Lambeth and now is known as Majolica.

In the nineteenth-century Spain was affected by the disaster of the Napoleonic wars and the beginning of the industrial revolution. In England in 1750, transfers were invented. At the same time England, France and the States, using the Majolica Methods, were inventing the first industrial ways of mass production. They were making jars, plates, statues and tiles. The industry sprang up in many parts of England, the main town being Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire.

The first World Industrial Fair was held in London in 1851; it was an international success and influenced all the crafts, in both industrial and artistic ways, showing new designs and methods of working. This trend lasted until about 1910 and nowadays, every piece made during that period has become a trophy for the collectors. What is strange is that at this time, in Spain, the last great ceramic business opened using the classical designs and methods. It was in 1908 in Talavera, and was known as Ruiz de Luna, named after its owner. It was internationally known and they exported to America and many other parts of the world. At the end of 1951 it closed, but the town now has a superb museum which displays the work of this firm and the private collection the owner made during his life time. The factories are now all industrial, not like before, when hundreds of men working by hand. There are now a few small firms that continue working on this craft.

MAJOLICA: 2b - History in Spain

ca: MAJÒLICA: 2b -- La seva Història a Espanya

es: MAYÓLICA: 2b – Su Historia en España

Ceramics have always been popular in Spain and earthenware pottery has existed for thousands of years. First Iberian pottery; later Greek and Roman; then, with the conquest of the Arabs came the methods of Luster and Majolica.

What makes the Majolica method different from others is that bisque (already fired clay) is covered with an opaque glaze-base and decorated with metallic oxide glaze colors. They are both fired to gather, this integrates the colors that overlap forming other colors and the result is a brightly colored, glossy surface that maintains and enhances the lines, colors and quality of the decoration.

The metals used were gold, silver, tin, platinum and copper. Silver and copper created brown, orange and red, which sometimes appeared so dark as to look black. The Majolica method developed, changing and evolving, new ways of making colors were found, without having to use expensive metals, so work became cheaper and quicker. In each pottery company the preparation of colors was a specialty and top secret. The employer, who made and prepared the colors to be used, had the job of measuring and keeping account of the quantities given out to the workers who decorated the ware.

In locations where the earth was suitable for making clay, many ceramic firms became established. In the past each firm went through the whole process, from taking the clay out of the ground to decorating and firing the finished pieces. The workers were always employed in the same section so that they became specialists and quick in their work. The clay, after being dug out of the ground, was mixed with water and screened to clean, removing all insoluble material. The water was then filtered off, the clay left until it reached a semi-dry state, then cut into large separated blocks and left in caves, sometimes for up to two years, as ageing helps to improve the plasticity.

Before being used, the clay has to be well kneaded to form a smooth plastic body, suitable for throwing and molding tiles, pots and plates. For the first firing, the pieces made in clay have to be left until they are bone dry. In Spain, the kilns used for firing were known as Arab Kilns and they created the heat by wood-firing. They were large brick structures, with two floors. The bottom floor of the kiln was for the wood-fire and the top for the objects going to be fired. The firing time depended on the size of the kiln and could take up to 24 hours. It started with a low fire and gradually heated up until it reached the required temperature and this point was judged by looking through the pin-holes to see the color of the heat and slipping out test pieces to see the evolution of a colored glaze. The timing with clay is not too important as slightly over-firing does not affect it, but with colors, over-firing can completely destroy all the work in the kiln.

The firing process demanded men to work non-stop, filling the kiln with wood, checking that the temperature was continuously increasing at the same degree throughout the kiln. When the kiln reached the correct temperature it was left to cool, opened, and each piece was taken out, checked for deformed shapes, uneven surfaces which had to be filed down and sounded for breakages. Damaged pieces that could not be used commercially were broken up and put into walls, while being built to strength them. Some can be seen in the walls of the Cathedral of Barcelona.

It became a popular product and started being made in other towns, such as Talavera and Barcelona. The trade was in the hands of the local merchants, but Moorish craftsmen, who had moved from Andalusia to live and work in the peaceful and prosperous Christian kingdoms increased their work, as it was not only for the wealthy families, but also for merchants, townspeople, religious communities, and was exported to the Mediterranean and the Low Countries. With this expansion, the Moorish traditions in decoration were gradually changing and being replaced with Christian motives.

With the increase in production and cheaper materials, the colors could now be made without valuable metals. Plates, pots, tiles for walls, floors, and ceilings were all being produced with blue, a popular and predominant color. The word “azulejo”, which means tile in Spanish, originates from this tradition. “Azul” means blue and “lejos” means far off. Today, “azulejo” means tile and, translated literally, means blue-distance, a color to be seen from far off.

Tiles in churches and private houses started to show figurative conventions. It became an illustrated method of informing the illiterate public, decorations on church walls told Bible stories; chemist’s pots were decorated with plants and their Latin names; craftsmen and workmen doing everyday jobs were depicted; tiles showed the process of making wine, bread, oil, and many other specialties. Products in ceramics were being produced for daily use by all the public.

MAJOLICA: 3 - Decorating

ca: MAJÒLICA: 3 – Decoració

es: MAYÓLICA: 3 – Decoración

Click on the title to see more images

This section show one of the most important parts of the Majolica method of painting; the brush strokes with the variations and intensities of a color.
On these tiles only one color is used, blue of different strengths. First the outlines are painted then the different shades of blue are added. The movement of the brush strokes and the over lapping of colors gives form to the design. When finished, the glaze-base and decoration are fired together and vitrify at 980ºC., which turns the glaze-base into an opaque layer of glass, preventing the bisque from being porous and accentuates the colors.

THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS SHOW STAGES OF WORKING ON A DESIGN OF 9 TILES.
In the last photo you can see some superb painting and how important the brush strokes are, they give form and strength.

MAJOLICA: 4a - Layout of one tile designs.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4a - Dissenys d'una rajola

es: MAYÓLICA: 4a - Diseños de un azulejo

Click on the title to see more images

This and following seven sections are to show different ways of working with this method.

You can make tile designs in two ways; tiles put together to form one picture or each tile a complete illustration and with these you can mix subjects and make up pictures to the size and shape you want. There are three different sizes in tiles 15×15, 20×15 and 20×20cm.

LAYOUT OF ONE TILE DESIGNS
1) Making bread; 4 tiles showing the stages of working, with a separate border. Total size 30×75cm
2) A garden table made up with tiles of flowers and different jobs and with a separate border. Total size 60×120cm.
3) Making wine; mounted and framed like a painting. It has 12 tiles with different pictures showing the stages of working and has a special border to go with it, decorated with grapes. Total size 75×69cm

MAJOLICA: 4b - Glaze texrures and accentuated outlines.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4b - Textures d'esmalt base i contorns accentuats.

es: MAYÓLICA: 4b - Textutas de esmalte base y contornos acentuados.

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PISCIS.
A DESIGN WITH A GLAZE-BASE TEXTURE AND ACCENTUATED OUTLINES

One of the five different names designed for the outside entrances of a group of apartment buildings, to make each one distinguishable from the road. The glaze-base has a texture formed by throwing a fine coat of glaze-base over the tiles and then a thick glaze is spattered on top. The border lines are part of the tiles. To accentuate the outlines, which form the perimeter of the letters and the fish, the glaze-base was scraped off leaving an indent of 1cm wide showing the bisque, this was then painted with black and then the rest was painted following the Majolica Method.

Overall size: 60 × 75cm, 15 × 15cm, Fired at 980ºC.
See: Dry Cord, Glaze Textures

MAJOLICA: 4c - Stenciling.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4c – Estergit

es: MAYÓLICA: 4c - Estarcido

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TILE DESIGN FOR A CORRIDOR

Stenciling using the Majolica Method These tiles were made for the restoration of a corridor about 100 meters long. The original tiles were produced in the early 1900´s using the Majolica method. The tiles are covered with an opaque glaze-base then the colors were stenciled on. The design consists of 6 different ones; each tile is 20 × 20cm,.
See: Stenciling.

MAJOLICA: 4d - Repetitive designs.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4d – Disseny repetit

es: MAYÓLICA: 4d - Diseños repetido.

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A REPETITIVE DESIGN with photos showing one and 16 tiles

A one-tile design which when rotated to form a pattern.
The photos are of two classical designs painted in polychrome and monochromatic blue. Hundreds of this type of design can be found throughout Spain. The big photos have 16 tiles, to show the rotation of the design, which creates the pattern and between them is one of each design and color.

MAJOLICA: 4e - Letters scraped off and borders as part of the tile.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4e - Lletres buidades i sanefa com a part de les rajoles.

es: MAYÓLICA: 4e - Letras vaciadas y cenefa como parte de los azulejos.

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LA GARRAFA (Name of a restaurant)

The tiles were prepared a glaze-base, then the border, which is an integral part of the perimeter of the tiles and the letters were marked on with vegetable-ash. The glaze-base, which formed the letters, was scraped off and the spaces were filled up with a red glaze, leaving a thin line showing the bisque between the white glaze-base and the red. The line was scraped and cleaned to be 1 cm in width.

Using a large soft brush and clean water, first the rough edge of glaze-base round the letters was smoothed out, then the edge of the red letters. The space was then painted over with black, so as to accentuate the letters. The rest of the design decorated in the Majolica method and fired at 980ºC. The tiles are 15×15cm and the total size 60×165cm.

MAJOLICA: 4f - Colors fired at two temperatures

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4f - Colors cuits a dues temperatures

es: MAYÓLICA: 4f - Colores cocidos a dos temperaturas

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SHIELD Colors fired at two temperatures


It has nine pieces and is in flat relief except for the rolled parts round the edge of the shield. It was fired 3 times, first it was molded in refractory and fired 850ºC. Then the background was painted with a color that vitrifies at 1280ºC. Even the undecorated pieces were fired the second time to allow for the shrinking and change of color of the clay, so it would all be the same. The crown and shield were then decorated in the Majolica method and fired at 980ºC.

MAJOLICA: 4g - Relief in four different thicknesses.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4g - Relleu pla de gruixos diferents.

es: MAYÓLICA: 4g - Relieve plano de grosores diferentes.

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TAURO (Taurus)

There are five pieces of flat relief of four different thicknesses, in refractory clay, It was rolled out to the heights needed, then each piece was cut to the required sizes then shaped by hand so the pieces would fit to together.
The clouds on the left and right are the thinnest, then the piece with the RO, then TAU; then the thickest, the bull. The letters are dug out so that they are at a lower level than the clouds. It was all bisque fired at 1200ºC. Then decorated using the Majolica method and then fired again at 980ºC.

MAJOLICA: 4h - Colors fired at two temperatures

ca: MAJÒLICA: 4h - Colors cuits a dues temperatures.

es: MAYÓLICA: 4h - Colores horneado a dos temperaturas.

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BOAT – Decoration for a patio
It has seven pieces molded in refractory clay. It is in flat except for the anchor and rope round the edge. When the shapes were formed it was all fired at 850ºC and then the anchor and rope were decorated with colors that vitrify at 1280ºC. It was all fired at 1280ºC, even the undecorated pieces, to make sure the shrinking and change of color of the clay would be the same throughout .The picture of the boat was then decorated using the Majolica method and all these pieces were fired again at 980ºC. Overall dimensions are 75 × 90cm.

MAJOLICA: 5a - Tiles preparing to paint.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 5a – Rajoles preparades per decorar.

es: MAYÓLICA: 5a – Azulejos preparados para decorar.

Prepare everything you need to work with. On the table-trolley, colors, brushes, water to clean brushes, water to add to colors and hand poll for steading your hand.

This is a short explanation on the stages of working. “Click” on a words in red and it will take you directly to that subject.

a) Hand pole
b) Tile stand
c) Tiles
d) Borders
e) Wooden bar – Tile supportl
f) Cloth
g) Pot – Water cleaning brushes
h) Brushes – Majolica painting
i) Pots – Prepared colors
j) Bottle – For clean water
k) Table-trolly

The following covers the whole process of working on tiles from its bisque state to being fired, clicking on any word in red will take you directly to that section.

Preparing to paint

To decorate with this method the clay has to be bisque fired and every piece before using has to be cleaned and sounded. The opaque glaze-base has been prepared, stirred and checked for thickness. It is then pouring over the tiles which when dry are piled up in pairs, face to face and the sides and backs cleaned.

The design being used has 30 tiles, which are separated into five sections of six, and each one has been put on to transparent paper, with the outlines and special details pounced with a pin-pencil.

Each section prepared, starting with the bottom right, is laid out onto a flat surface. The design is laid on top, weighed down with a heavy object or pressed with your left hand so it cannot move. It is then rubbed with a marking bag full of charcoal powder which goes through the pounced holes and marks the design onto the tiles. Lift up a corner to make sure it is well marked, if not rub it again with the marking bag. Continue doing this until it is well marked, then the transparent paper can be removed, Lift the tiles up one by one, starting at the bottom left hand corner and number and code each one on the back with a dark color, which when fired will be permanent.

First put a line of bisque border tiles, without base along the stand, to the same length of what you are painting. This makes a space between the tiles at the bottom of the design and the bar that supports them, so that when products that are being used fall, they collect on top of the bar, against the border and do not touch and damage the prepared tiles. On top of the bisque tiles, placed the ones that have been prepared to work with and continue until the design is complete. Start to paint at the top and work downwards, so if you drop any paint it falls on an undecorated part and it will be easier to clean. With a large picture, one usually sits while painting the bottom rows and stands for the ones at the top. If working on a small picture, use a tile stand that can be put on a table and you then can work sitting down; it holds up to six tiles vertically or horizontally.

MAJOLICA: 5b - Tiles the process of working

ca: MAJÒLICA: 5b – Rajoles procés de treball

es: MAYÓLICA: 5b - Azulejos el proceso de trabajo

Click on the title to see more images

Introduction to the process of working:
There are seven stages of preparing and decorating tiles, the following photos show the last five, as photos for the first two, a bisque tile and a tile with the glaze-base, are not needed. The first two photos apply to both decorating in blue and with colors and are followed by six photos, three showing the stages in blue and three with colors.

Marked on with and outlines
3) The drawing marked on with charcoal powder. 4) The outline painted.
The stages with blue
5) First one shaded. 6) Second; shades. 7) Third; fired.
The stages with colors
5) First one shaded. 6) Second; shades. 7) Third; fired.

MAJOLICA: 5c - The stages of painting tiles

ca: MAJOLICA: 5c - Les etapes de la pintura de rajoles

es: MAYÓLICA: 5c – Las etapas de la pintura de azulejos

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The next stages go through the using of colors.
With a large picture it is better to start painting the top lines of tiles, so if the colors fall on the ones underneath, the cleaning becomes easier as there are only the outlines. The last colors to be painted are the skin and the ground because they are very clear and watered down colors.

THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF THE COLORS IN RELATION TO THE PLACES.
White on the left is the lightest color, it extenuates the form. Two colors overlapping form one another which can vary, depending on the strength of the colors.

BLUE COBALT
SHIRTS, SALT, TROUSER, TROUSER TURN-UPS, BOTTLE –Watered-down blue cobalt painted leaving the white base on the left, it is then shaded with the same color but stronger.
PORRONS – Watered-down blue cobalt painted and shaded with it. The wine is purple of different intensities shaded with the blue.
WHEELS OF THE CART- The outside painted with watered-down blue cobalt and the inside with watered-down strong brown.
TROUSERS, CAT’S PLATEBlue cobalt watered down to cover the whole part and shaded with it, but stronger.
BROWN DIRTY
WOOD OF THE GRAPE CARRIER AND TROUSERS OF 3 MENDirty brown shaded with dark brown.
RED
HATS, BELTS, ROOFS, TOMATOES – Covered with red and shaded with brown-red.
GREEN, LIGHT
TWO SHIRTS AND THE BOY’S JERSEYYellow watered down, shaded with light green.
GREEN, STRONG
OIL BOTTLE AND PORRON – Leaving patches of white base, it is painted with watered-down strong green and shaded with it, but stronger.
OCHRE
TREE TRUNKS, GRAPE CARRIER, HORSE’S LEAD, CANE, GROUND RIGHT HAND CORNER, BREAD CRUST, STOOLS, CORKSOchre strong to cover the whole part and shaded with brown-red. HOUSESOchre and dirty green watered down, to give shading and textures to the house walls.
PURPLE
SHIRT (3rd tile left) – Leaving patches of white base on the left, it is painted with watered down purple, shaded with strong purple and a little strong brown.
GRAPES – Paint a stroke of watered-down blue on the right of each grape, leaving a small line of white on the right and a large patch on the left. With yellow cover the patch on the edge of the blue and leaving white on the left, with purple cover the right leaving a little yellow and white.
TURQUOISE
SKY – Watered-down turquoise of different intensities, leaving the white base as a contrast.
DRESS, HORSE – Watered down turquoise shaded with watered-down strong brown.
YELLOW
TREES – Covered with yellow, shaded with light green and then dark green.
SHIRTS, BASKETSYellow is painted leaving the white base on the left. It is then shaded with ochre and brown-red.
SHIRTS, SKIRT, HORSE STRAPS, BREAD CRUST – Covered with yellow and shaded with ochre and brown-red.
SHIRTS AT THE BOTTOM LEFTYellow is painted leaving the white base on the left, it is then shaded with red and brown-red.
CART BASKET, WOODEN BOX, WHITE OF BREAD, HAT – Covered with watered – down yellow and shaded with watered – down strong brown.

THE ORDER OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS
OUTLINES: a) Outlines,
THE TWO TOP LINES: b) First colors, c) Second colors. d) Third colors,
THE THREE BOTTOM LINES: e) First colors, f) Second colors, g) Third colors. h) Picture finished
PICTURE FIRED: i) Picture fired, j) Picture fired and framed

MAJOLICA: 5d - 12 Tile Designs

ca: MAJOLICA: 5d - 12 Dissenys de rajoles.

es: MAYÓLICA: 5d - 12 Diseños de azulejos,

Click on the title to see more images

This section has twelve photos of tile designs to show just a few of the many possibilities there are for using the same method in different ways.

MAJOLICA: 6a - Plats preparing to paint.

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6a – Plats preparació per pintar-los

es: MAYÓLICA: 6a – Platos preparación para pintarlos

a) Hand pole
b) Plate
c) Plate stand
d) Foam rubber
e) Table shelf

NOTE: f) to k) are the same as in Majolica: 5a – tiles preparing to paint.

Preparing to paint plates
To decorate with this method the clay has been fired and every piece before using has to be sounded and cleaned. The opaque glaze-base has been prepared and before using it, stirred and checked for thickness. The piece being prepared is then dipped into the opaque glaze-base and put to one side to dry. The parts which the plates, jars and lids stand on are cleaned and the trademark is written on the bottom. They are then turned the right way up and any damage on the front is repaired. On the front of the plate the top center is marked using a soft lead pencil. The mark should fall between the two holes on the back used for hanging the plate; this lets you know which way up the design has to be marked on.

Plates and designs for plates can vary in many different ways in structure, size and shape and can be one design or with a center, border and banding. In the section PLATES – Layout of designs there is 3 completely different designs on the same type plate.

The following two sections go through the process of decorating the same plate. In Majolica; 6c – Preparing plats to paint . Preparing plates to paint explains the layout of the design and in Majolica: 6d – Painting plates” goes through the stages of painting plates.

Put the plate on the banding wheel and work out the correct spacing for a boarder, that has two designs, each one is repeated 6 times, so you must have 12 spaces and mark them with a pencil line. With a marking bag first mark the center design, then the borders. What you are decorating must be centered correctly on a hand wheel and using a banding pole, paint the band the lines need for your design, except for the one round the edge, which is always the last part to be painted.

On your table shelf you have a plate stand put the plate the right way up, at about 80º and on top of a bit of foam plastic to damage it less and to stop it slipping. Paint first the center and then borders, using a hand pole hand pole to steady your hand. It easier to paint the border the right way up, hold the plate, with one finger on each side and turn it. Paint the outlines first, then add the colors, when finished put it back on the wheel, center it and repair the edge with the glaze-base, then band it if needed with the required color. Move it to its place of keeping, lift it up by putting your finger underneath, you can touch the glaze-base but no part that has been painted.

Keep all your drawings for plats and jars and file them in two sections, one for the centers and one for the borders; they can be used one with another and on jars.

MAJOLICA: 6b - Preparing plates to paint

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6b – Preparar plats per pintar

es: MAYÓLICA: 6b – Preparando platos para pintar

Click on the title to see more images

The following explains the process of marking designs onto a plate, it has two illustrations, the first is the plate painted and fired and the second is a drawing that classifies the different sections of the design.
In the next section Majolica: 6d – Painting plates goes through the process of painting.

Working process
1) Put the plate and center it on a banding wheel, turn the wheel and with a soft lead pencil mark on all the lines needed for placing the design and for banding with a color.

2) With calipers or a layout card, calculate the spacing of the two border designs, each one has to be marked on six times. The bottom of both is part of the second border line and one for the top

3) Mark on all the designs with charcoal powder starting with the center. First make sure it is the right way round in relation to hanging the plate up and if the center of the plate curves upward, the transparent paper must be darted around the edge.

4) Next, the two border designs, A & B. Each has to be marked on six times. Turn the wheel so the center top is near to you. By marking here, you avoid working over the plate and damaging it. Lay the transparent paper on A, so its center line coincides with the center line on the plate and it is between the first two banded pencil lines. Mark the first design; turn the wheel and mark the one opposite one. Next, mark the two at 90° on the right and the left. Continue in the same way, marking the second design, which goes between the first designs, until the border is completed.

5) If the plates you are working with are made from molds there is no trouble of fitting in the designs, but if made by hand you may have adjustto the size, as they are never exactly the same.

6) The three bands, two which have been used for guiding the layout of the border designs and one around the inside edge of the border. Following the pencil lines, paint them with the required color and the different widths needed for the design. If the glaze-base is very dry and the paint does not run well, using a very clean, soft paintbrush, with clean water, band the glaze-base in the place you want to put the line, and then paint the lines. This is called banding with water and makes the paint run better.

7) In this design there is no border line round the outside edge. If there was one it is not painted; it is left until all the decorating is finished, because while working, the plate has to stand on its side, which damages the line. At the end, it is put back on the wheel, repaired and painted.

MAJOLICA: 6c - Painting plates

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6c – Pintant plats

es: MAYÓLICA: 6c – Pintando platos

Click on the title to see more images

The designs have been marked onto the plate and the inside circles are banded. To decorate the plate, balance it against a sturdy object that will not move with its weight or you can make a stand for the plate. Rest the plate on something soft, such as a bit of foam plastic. This does not damage the plate and keeps it from slipping. Sit down to paint, using a bar, to steady your hand, the same as when painting tiles.

The following photos show the different stages in painting in the order of working.
1) Explains the layout of a plate.
2) The design marked on with charcoal powder.
3) The banding lines painted.
4) The outlines painted:
5) First colors: are the ones that will have another color painted on top or will be left as they are. As an example the yellow of the border will not be touched but the yellow of the jacket will be shaded with green copper.
6) Second colors: go on top of one already painted to shade or form a second color, the trousers are ochre with dark brown and the yellow of the jacket with green copper.
7) The plate fired with the colors explained in writing.

When you have finished decorating the plate, put it back on the wheel and repair the outside edge with glaze-base. It can now be left as it is or banded, round the edge with a color. The plate is finished. Clean your hands and then lift it carefully. Do not touch the decoration. Store the plate in a safe place until it can be fired.

MAJOLICA: 6d - Twelve plates painted

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6d – Dotze plats decorats

es: MAYÓLICA: 6d – Doce platos decorados

Click on the title to see more images

This section has twelve photos of tile designs, to show just a few of the many possibilities there are for using the same method in different ways.

MAJOLICA: 6e - Jars and lids

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6e – Gerros i tapes

es: MAYÓLICA: 6e – Jarros y tapas

a) Tile-shelves
b) Banding wheel
c) Banding bar
Designs for jars and lids can be very small and the best way of filing them is in transparent plastic folders with photos of each one with the designs on transparent paper and pounced. Jars can have designs used for plates or tiles; figures, birds, flower etc. The only ones kept separately are plants and herbs connected with health, as well as the designs and names. Preparing them to paint is the same as the section on plates, the difference is that they are always decorated on a banding wheel and using a banding bar, and what you are decorating must be centered correctly.

MAJOLICA: 6f - Albarello jars

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6f – Albarels de farmàcia

es: MAYÓLICA: 6f - Albarelos de farmacia

Albarello jars The photos show just a few of the many possibilities there are in shapes, sizes and designs. In the past, the most common was the drawings of herbs with their Latin name to help the illiterate public. As most lids have been broken it has become fashionable to buy jars without them. Jars are always decorated on a banding wheel; it allows them to be turned without being touched. Jar walls can be straight or curved.

Moving a jar that ha been decorated, can be done in two ways;
a) Using a tile as a tray.
b) Putting your hand in the neck and with the pressure of your fingers against the inside walls you can pick it up, if it is heavy use one finger from your other hand to support it underneath. This is very practical for putting work into a kiln if it opens at the top, you can just slip your hand holding the jar inside the kiln and then you can see that it does not touch anything on any side.

The neck of the jar slants outwards and is round so the design has to be wider at the bottom than at the top. To avoid this lines are banded around it, which makes the design on the neck straighter.

A design can be repeated around a jar and there can be different designs on each side or just the name of a medicinal plant. The names of these jars were surrounded by a drawing of an antique scroll of paper.

Working process
1) Have your designs prepared on transparent paper, pounced and darted
2) Put the jar on the banding wheel and center it with a soft lead pencil, turn the wheel and band on all the lines needed for placing the design and for banding with a color.
3) Calculate the spacing for the designs, calipers can be used for this and mark them with a pencil line.
4) Mark on all the designs with charcoal powder.

5) Jars can be straight or curved, when curved it makes the designs difficult to mark and worse when they curve both vertically and horizontally, as shown in the illustration. c)

The transparent paper has to be well darted on all sides to fit in and you need the assistance of a third hand, one to steady the jar, one to hold the prepared design and one to rub it with a marking bag.

MAJOLICA: 6g - Twelve photos of painted jars

ca: MAJÓLICA: 6g – Dotze fotografies de gerros pintats

es: MAYÓLICA: 6g – Doce fotografías de jarros pintados

Click on the title to see more images

This section has twelve photos of many jar designs, to show just a few of the possibilities there are for using the same method in different ways.

MAJOLICA: 6h - Lids

ca: MAJÒLICA: 6h – Tapes

es: MAYÓLICA: 6h - Tapas

PAINTING LIDS
Moving a lid that is decorated, you can lift it up with your fingers under the lip if there is enough space or by the knob if it has not been painted, or on a tile-tray if it has, which is good because when the flange has had the base cleaned off, it can be put on a tile-tray and not having to be touched when it is moved from the wheel into the kiln.

Working process of the first lid.
1) Put the lid on top of a tile on the wheel and center it.
2) Turn the wheel and with a soft lead pencil draw the banding lines, then mark the circumference with four vertical lines making four sections of the same size.
3) Paint two wide lines with the blue color that will be under the main design watered down, leaving a space between them and the penciled banding lines.
4) The only part of the design that has been pounced to mark on is the flower. Place the center of it on top of the vertical pencil lines and mark it on with charcoal powder
5) Mark the design nearest you, then turn the wheel and mark the opposite, then the side ones.
6) Next, paint the knob and the banding lines.
7) Paint the flowers; following the charcoal powder lines and then add all the rest of the decoration by hand.
8) The lid painted and fired.

WORKING ON THE SECOND LID

1) Place the lid on the wheel as explained.
2) Mark the correct measurements on the lid’s circumference of all the 4 vertical lines, equally spaced, with a pencil. This is where the center of the small arch will fall.
3) Draw the outlines of the design and the horizontal and vertical lines onto tracing paper so as to make the placing easy. Remember that the lids bend, so the design must be narrow at the top to dart the tracing paper.
4) Mark the design on with vegetable-ash, making sure that the vertical lines drawn onto the tracing paper coincide with the ones on the lid.
5) To paint the band use three colors, starting at the top one; blue, blue, yellow, ochre, blue, blue and the last one round the edge blue. Usually the yellow is painted and then the ochre put on top.

PAINTING
6) Dark blue – Use it for the four sections of the blue flowers, mark the inside edge with a blue line, then with a thick brush paint the vertical lines, starting at the top and center and make the strokes get narrower as they go down.
7) Dark brown – paint the line of the arches between the blue flowers.
8) Ochre – Paint the spot at the top of the blue flowers with ochre and in the dark brown arch at the middle of the three lines that cross.
9) Red – Use it for the spots in the center of the flower and the three petals between the blue flowers.
10) Green – 3 green strokes on each side of the red petal.

PACKING LIDS INTO THE KILN
After the lid has been decorated, it has to be moved to be put into the kiln. This is difficult to do without touching the colors, especially if the knob and edge are painted. Some lids are designed so that the flange is high enough to put your fingers under the lip, which enables you to pick it up. If picked up by the knob, the glaze might have to be repaired once it has been put into the kiln. If it has been decorated on top of a tile that is bisque, it can be moved, using the tile like a tray. To do this, you must be quite sure that there was no glaze on the part of the flange touching the tile.

Once decorated, move and touch as little as possible and take great care when putting them into the kiln. It is easier to build up the first floors in the kiln with small objects, leaving enough space on the top shelf for large objects like jars so they can be put in directly without the need for props and other furniture. This is when you realize that kilns that open at the top are much more practical as all the placing of all the pieces can be seen so they do not touch and every centimeter is saved.

MAJOLICA: Brushes

ca: MAJÒLICA: Pinzells

es: MAYÓLICA: Pinceles

Brushes needed.
You will need about eight brushes for painting.
1) Two size-10 brushes, cut down to a different thickness to form a narrow, flat end, the drawing shows a brush before and after cutting, these are for painting outlines. The thick part holds the paint so it runs down through the thin part and allows long unbroken strokes.
2) One large, soft brush for cleaning off any loose, glaze and vegetable-ash from the glaze-base. Do not use this brush for anything else. Make sure it can be washed and is completely dry and clean before using it.
3) One large brush with soft hair for painting the edges and borders of the tiles.
4) Four brushes of different sizes.
The illustration shows a brush before and after cutting, these are for painting outlines.

The brush work is of great importance in the Majolica method, the movement of the brush strokes that gives form to the object being painted also shows the relation of one color over another in creating a third color.

Customizing your brush: Using small, very sharp scissors cut the paintbrush hair as shown in the drawing. You can see that half of the brush hair is cut away to form a step around the fine center, leaving the thickness you require. The center must have a flat end, never a point. Cutting the hair allows the brush to hold paint in the thick part, which then runs through to the thinner part and allows you to make long, smooth strokes. This is very important when painting outlines. For a large picture, use one cut with a wide end and paint the delicate details, like faces and hands, with a fine end. Use the narrow brush for small designs of one or two tiles and for plates and pots. Once you have learned the technique of using these brushes you can cut them down to the sizes you prefer.

MAJOLICA: Colors (a)

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (a)

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (a)

Colors: in ceramics the colors can be prepared and fired in many different ways and temperatures. They all have to be mixed or used with glaze, which vitrifies and makes the clay or bisque non porous and decorates it. Remember that colors with the same name but made by different firms are always different. When buying a new color, get a sample and test it.

The photos show 20 different colors.
The following are labled Name-Colors-Codes


Black = 1 black (Cr-Co-Ni-Mn-Fe) / Blue =1 blue cobalt (Si-Co-P) + 0,25 black (Cr-Co-Ni-Mn-Fe)
Blue dark = 1 blue cobalt (Si-Co-P) + 0,50-black (Cr-Co-Ni-Mn-Fe) / Blue Turquoise = 1 blue turquoise (Si-Zr-V)

Brown-red = 1 brown-red (Zn-Fe-Cr) / Brown dirty = 1 brown (Ti-Sb-Cr) + 0, 25 oxide Manganese (Mn2O3)
Brown dark = 1 brown dark (Cr-Fe-Mn) / Brown strong = 1 brown-red (Zn-Fe-Cr) + 1-brown dark (Cr-Fe-Mn)

Green copper = 1 green copper oxide (Cu O2) / Green dirty = 1 green copper oxide (Cu O2)
Green light = 1 yellow + 0, 25 / Green strong = 1 green strong (Co-Cr)

Red Crimson = 1 red crimson (Sn, Ca, Cr, Si) / Red Strong = 1 red strong (Cd, Se)
Yellow = 1 yellow strong (Zr-Si-Pr) + 0, 33( Pb-Sb-Fe) / Yellow lemon = 1 yellow lemon (Si-Zr-Pr)

Manganese = 1 oxide Manganese (Mn2O3) + 0, 15 red crimson (Sn, Ca, Cr, Si) / Ochre = 1 orange (Pb-Sb-Fe) + Red strong (Cd, Se)
Ochre skin = 1 ochre light (Ti-Sb-Cr) / Purple = 1 red crimson (Sn-Cr)

MAJOLICA: Colors (b) Preparing

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (b) Preparació

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (b) Preparación

Preparing and mixing glaze colors: To make up your own glaze colors, mix one portion of color in powder form, which should be the combination of colors needed to produce the desired color, plus three times its volume of transparent glaze. Add water and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. The amounts you make depend on how much you work.

Remember; Keep stirring the glaze colors you are using, this keeps the water and color from separating, and maintains a consistent density, which helps the color to run well. Water evaporates, so add more if necessary. If your colors do not run well while painting, add a little medium, which is a lubricant liquid. When the colors are left for a long while, they get dry and hard. Add water, leave for a short while so they can integrate, then mix, using a looped modeling tool. If you stir with a paint brush, be careful as you will not know the density of the color your brush is carrying, so clean the brush, before starting to paint.

Note: Medium is the common name for the lubricant and the technical name is Polyethylene glycol

MAJOLICA: Colors (c) How to use

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (c) com utilitzar-los

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (c) Como utilizarlos

Painting in the Majolica method over an unfired glaze can be done using any method and creating any style to apply the colors. What I explain here is the representative antique way of using colors. This is one of the most difficult and most important challenges—not only concerning the outlines but also the colors and the way you use them. The strength of the colors, light and shade, the relation of colors over another to form a third or fourth color, the mark you leave with your paintbrush, all are important.

There is a natural law in the perspective of colors. Light colors get darker and dark colors get lighter in the distance. So, objects in the far distance become a soft mixture of colors. The light in ceramics always comes from the left.

To add shading leave small sections of the white glaze-base on the left side of objects in your design, or, after painting them, scrape off bits of color. This adds light and accentuates the dimension. Basically, you use the white of the glaze as the lightest color, then a light color as the basic color, and then a darker color for the shading, which overlaps and forms another color.

To add colors, when you have finished the outlines, decide roughly where each color will be needed in your picture and paint in that color. Begin painting with the light colors—light blue, yellow, etc. Remember, colors can be used in different shades and combining, or overlapping colors is important. When fired, this will make a third or fourth color, which can count as a color or as shading. This effect can be achieved by putting a dark color over a light color or by covering a dark color with a light color. If you want to change the tone of a color or make it softer, rub it gently with your finger or with damp, clean paintbrush.

If you make mistakes while painting and want to correct them, use a paintbrush and clean water to soften the color. The mistake can be carefully scratched off, using a thin, small, straight piece of metal, a small paintbrush with the hair cut right down or the wooden end of a paintbrush handle cut to make a point.

The last colors
The ground and the faces and arms are left till the end to paint and are painted with ochre-skin color. This color is very weak, which makes it difficult to correct. If by accident a color falls on to the white glaze-base, it is easy to repair but if it fall on to a light color, it is difficult. You have to scrape it off and then repaint it. The intensity of the color might be different and if you overlap what is there, it will leave a strong line.

MAJOLICA: Colors (d) Outlines

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (d) Contorns

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (d) Contornos

Click on the title to see more images

Introduction to using colors: Painting the outlines is drawing with your paintbrush. Use your cut down brushes to paint the outlines and any details you think are necessary. Any strong color can be used for outlines but the following five colors are the main ones. Remember, when I talk about colors, they will have been prepared as explained previously, and also that continuously stirring them helps to make the colors run well. This is very important for painting long, smooth strokes.

FIVE MAIN COLORS FOR OUTLINES
Manganese: is a dark brown that has been used throughout the centuries for painting outlines. When fired, it burns away so when using it for outlines, it must be well-mixed and strong.
Brown: Instead of using manganese we now use 50% brown-red + 50% strong brown
Black: Is a new, hard, industrial color and should be used for designs that need to have an impact, like names, advertisements, instructions, etc.
Blue: one of the oldest colors and it has been used through the centuries for designs of one color, but in different shades. For the outlines and extreme dark shading, you need a strong, color, so a little black is added.
Brown-red: a good color for outlines. To make it darker, it can be mixed with dark brown or black. Though not an antique color, it is good for fine lines.

THE PICTURES SHOW THE OUTLINES PAINTED.
The following are three ways that you can paint outlines.

Outlines before colors: first paint the outlines, which have been marked on with charcoal powder, with long smooth strokes, using the movement of brush strokes to accentuate the drawing and adding small details to personalize and accentuate it.

Painting colors before outlines this is usually used when creating a colored texture. Imagine, for example, that you are painting a castle, which has large spaces of brick wall. Mark on a design and paint only the outlines, no details like windows or doors, then dust off all the charcoal powder and paint in the light colors, light brown, light red-brown and green, overlapping them to form shades and colors, to give an idea of the changing colors that bricks have. Then mark on the missing parts of the design over the colors and paint in all the details; bricks, windows, doors, etc. When the outlines are finished, add more colors if necessary.

a) Outlines if © painted in black.
b) Colors added to (b), the outlines were painted again in black to accentuate them.
c) The outlines of the house and windows were painted, next with different colors for the bricks a texture was given to the walls, after this the outlines of the bricks ere painted on top.
d) Outlines of the flowers are painted in strong brown and then the colors added

Note: When I use the word light in relation to a color, I mean exactly the same color but with more water or a lighter stroke

MAJOLICA: Colors (e) Using.

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (e) Utilitzant

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (e) Utilizando

Overlapping colors: When I use the word shading it does not mean, as in many types of painting, a smooth integration of the same color at different intensities. This form of shading can be used in the Majolica method but traditionally, shading is created by the overlapping of completely different colors. The strength depends on the intensity of the colors when used. Overlapping two colors always produces a third color.

It is be done in two ways;-
a) By putting a strong color on top of a lighter color. They mix making the light color underneath darker, makeing a third color and act as shading.
b) By shading first with the dark color and then painting over it with the light one. When fired, a dark color under a light one can be seen, but the dark color appears softer and it has been intermixed with the movement of the brush

The following list gives you an idea of the colors most commonly used when overlapping. The over lapping of colors not only forms the shading, but also the colors of the object being portrayed, as seen in the grapes in the photos in the next section, MAJOLICA (m) Colors painted

Colors commonly used for overlapping.
When I use the words soft or strong with colors, this applies to the same color, but the soft has more water.

Blue with: Blue Light over shade with dark blue. The blue can then be covered with yellow, purple, and it becomes green
Brown dirty with: Manganese as the over shade. Brown strong as an over or under shade.
Brown-red with: Manganese as the over shade: Brown strong as the over shade.
Brown strong with: Manganese as the over shade. Brown strong as an over shade, of many colors. Brown strong as an under shade, of many colors.
Green dirty with: Green strong as an over shade:
Manganese a s an over shade:
Brown strong as an over or under shade:
Green light with: Green strong as an over shade. Brown strong as an over or under shade.
Ochre with: Red-brown as the over shade or under shade. Manganese as the over shade. Brown strong as an under or over shade, use lightly.
Purple with: Manganese as the over shade. Blue dark as an over or under shade.
Blue light as an over or under shade
Red with: Manganese as the over shade. Brown strong as the over shade. Brown-red as the over shade or under shade.
Yellow with: Ochre as the over shade; it is not strong enough for under shade.
Strong brown an under and over shade, for this use it softly, as it is a strong color.
Green copper: paint the yellow first, leaving a little of the white base on the left, and a larger white space on the right. Then with copper green, paint over the space on the right, covering some of the yellow. This will give you 4 tones, white, yellow, green-yellow and green. Blue shade first with a light blue, then accentuate the darker parts of it with stronger blue. Then cover it all with yellow.

MAJOLICA: Colors (f) Painting with one color.

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (f) Decorar amb un color.

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (f) Pintados con un color

Click on the title to see more images

Painting with one color blue is the most used for painting different shades of just one color. However, any color can be used. The following photos show two different colors—blue and brown.

Left: Saint George in six tiles, painted in blue with outline in strong brown.
Center: Saint George in twelve tiles, painted in brown with outline in strong brown.
Right: Four tiles, painted in blue with outline in strong blue.

When painting with one color, have four jars, three of the same color but of different intensities, made by adding more water, and one prepared with a little more dark brown or black to use for extreme, dark shades. The correct way of working is to paint the outline with the very dark shade of the color being used but in both examples shown, I have done the outlines with the brown we normally use. I find that the strength of this color accentuates the drawing and seems to reflect the main color, so much so, that clients do not realize it is not blue or red-brown.

When the outlines are finished, use the lightest shade of the color being used, in the same way you would use a light color and leave a little of the white glaze-base showing on the left. Over this, on the center and right, using a color of a medium intensity, paint the shadows and give form and shape. Shade with the third blue, then over this, on the extreme right, use a little of the strongest color especially prepared, as this will help accentuate the dimensions. When one stroke of color overlaps another, it will form yet another shade. In this way overlapping, strength of color, strength and movement of the brush strokes and the different shades of the paint make the different intensities of just one color completely variable.

Remember. Blue it is a dangerous color because it is very strong. When applying the light blue, add a lot of water to it. You must also be careful not to accidentally put paint in a place that is not in the design. The color is so light, you might not see it until after it is fired and this will spoil your work

MAJOLICA: Colors (g) How to use

ca: MAJÒLICA: Colors (g) Com utilitzar-los

es: MAYÓLICA: Colores (g) Coma utiliza

Click on the title to see more images

The next photos show colors use in differnt ways.

These are the same colors in all the following tiles
Outlines: Brown-outlines.
Borders: Yellow.
Skin: Ochre or a skin color watered-down.
Hair: Ochre shaded with brown-outlines.
Shoes: Brown for outlines.
Blue cobalt: Light blue by its self or shaded with blue strong

1) Bread Nº12 from a collection of 12 tiles
Jacket: Shaded with light blue, blue strong then covered with yellow.
Trousers: Shaded in brown strong then covered in dirty brown.
Stools: Shaded lightly with brown strong, and then covered with ochre.
Dress: Yellow shaded with ochre.
Scarf: Purple
Bread: Ochre shaded with brown-red

2) Farmer and donkey. Officio Nº 32
Shirt: Yellow shaded with ochre.
Baskets: Shaded with brown strong watered-down and then covered with ochre.
Horse: Blue watered-down, shaded with watered-down brown strong.
Hat: Green copper.

3) Collecting olives Nº4, from a collection of twelve tiles .
Trees: green light shaded with green strong.
Tree trunks: green dirty shaded with brown strong watered down.
Left figure: Hats: purple shaded with brown strong.
Shawl and baskets: shaded with brown strong then covered with yellow.
Skirt: ochre shaded with brown-red.
Right figure: Hats: ochre shaded with brown-red.
Shirt: yellow shaded with ochre.
Bottom Figure: Hat: yellow shaded with ochre.
Blouse: brown strong lightly shaded then covered lightly with brown dirty.
Skirt: dirty green shaded then watered down with brown strong.

If you look carefully at the first wo pictures you can see the difference in yellow and ochre.

4) Grapes Wine Nº1, from a collection of welve tiles.
Grape leaves. First yellow, making a wide border round the edge of the leaf, then copper green on the unpainted center and going out so as to overlapping the yellow, leaving some of it round the edge.
Grapes: A small mark of blue on the right, of medium intensity, to accentuate the shade, on the left a stroke of yellow, leaving bits of white base, then on the right side covered with green light leaving some yellow and white on the left.
Hills: From left to right. Yellow- with copper green: Yellow-with ochre to shade: Copper green: Blue light with dark blue shading.
Branch: Ochre, shaded with brown-red.

5) Grapes Wine Nº1
Grapes: On the right blue light, with a spot of blue dark, a bit of yellow on the left, then covered with purple, leaving white and yellow showing on the left, the rest is the same as in the one before.

6) Hay Cutting Bread Nº4
Hat: Ochre shaded with reb-brown.
Jacket: Shaded with blue light and blue dark then covered with green copper
Trousers: Yellow shaded with ochre.
Hay: Very light yellow shaded very lightly with brown strong.

MANGANESE DIOXIDE

ca: MANGANÈS, DIÒXID

es: MANGANESO, DIÓXIDO

Manganese dioxide is a dark brown metal oxide color with a trace of purple. It has always been used in the Majolica method, mainly for outlining and shading. It is a nicer color than black, softer, less industrial and this helps to give an antique look, but unfortunately it also creates more problems. It is a temperamental color which blisters easily, particularly on the outlines and can burn away and spread, but the most common failure is that although it seems to have the right consistency when painted, when fired it comes out weak and this undermines the strength of the design. See: Blistering.

MANISES

ca: MANISES

es: MANISES

Manises is the name of a town in the province of Valencia, Spain which has been the center of ceramics for several centuries, the “Majolica” method is also known by the name of this town.

MARKING

ca: MARCADOR

es: MARCADOR

Marking powders
a) Vegetable ash is a natural product and will burn away when fired; as it has a dark color, use it on light-colored work.
b) Talcum powder is a natural product and will burn away when fired; as it is white, use it on dark-colored work.

Marking designs on to soft clay.
Put the drawing over the clay, draw over the outlines indenting it into the clay or pounce through the drawing into the clay. You can also pounce and mark on with a dust-bag using white industrial talcum powder, which will show up against the clay.

Marking designs on to bisque
a) Trace on the design with a soft lead pencil, cover the back of the drawing with lead, lay it the right way up on top of what you want to mark, draw over the outlines and this will mark on your design.
b) Put carbon paper between the drawing and the piece to be decorated and draw over the outlines.
c) Using a pounced design, mark on the design with a dust-bag using vegetable-ash or white industrial talcum powder which shows up against the bisque.

Marking designs on to a fired glaze surface
On-glaze: It is a glaze that has been fired, so rub over the part that has to be decorated with gum Arabic or thin varnish, leave to dry and then mark on the design, previously pounced, using vegetable-ash or talcum powder. The gum Arabic also holds the colors as they are mixed with water and do not adhere to a glazed surface.

Marking designs on to a crude glaze surface. In-glaze: Use vegetable-ash to mark a pounced design on to an unfired glaze-base, this will burn away when fired. See: Majolica Tiles, Plates, Jars and Lids

Marking tiles with codes.
Mark the back of the tiles of a large picture with numbers and letters, so as to know the order in which they have to be laid out. Start at the bottom left hand corner with A1, the numbers go lengthways and letters upwards. See: Numbering.

Marking the plate
Mark the top, outer edge of the plate with a pencil line, the mark should be directly in line with the center point between the two holes at the back. This lets you know where and which way up the design has to be marked on. See: Glaze-base (h).

Marking signature or trade mark.
On plates and jars the sign is on the foot. See: Glaze-base (h).
On tiles, it is usually on the right hand bottom corner. See: Trade mark.

MARKING - Bag for charcol

ca: MARCAT - Amb borsa de Carbó

es: MARCADO – Con bolsa de Carbón

Marking bag, A marking bag has to be made it is to hold a fine powder, either black charcoal to mark on to a light color or white industrial talcum powder for a dark color. To make a bag, cut out a small, square piece of material, lay it out and put the finely ground ash in the center, pull the corners up and join them with a rubber band and you have marking bag. You should use a material that is strong enough not to break too quickly and has a weave that lets the ash pass through; so the lines come out clean and strong enough to see.

Working method:
The design has been drawn, copied on to transparent paper and the outlines have been pounced. Lay it over what is going to be decorated, putting the rough side upwards, then rub it with the bag. The ash comes out, goes through the pounced holes and marks the design onto the piece to be decorated. Carefully, with a soft brush, clean or blow off any ash that is surplus. If marking onto biscuit or a dark surface, you can use white industrial talcum powder in the same way and white shows up better.

MARKING TILES - LARGE DESIGNS

ca: MARCAT DE RAJOLES - DISSENYS GRANS

es: MARCADO DE AZULEJOS - DISEÑO GRANDE

Click on the title to see more images

Marking a large design:
Place the tiles that have been prepared with a glaze-base, on a flat surface to form the size and shape of the design or the part that is going to be marked. If it is a very large design it should be separated into sections, taking into account the size of the transparent paper you want it printed on. Being cut down makes them easier to mark and to keep after being used.

a) A design of 30 tiles cut into 5 sections of six tiles.
b) The top right section place for marking,
c) Tiles marked.

Lay the tracing paper on top of the tiles put two heavy objects in two different corners to hold the tracing paper in place. Have two, so when marking you can move one and the other keeps it placed correctly. Always start by marking the tiles at the left bottom corner, so they are in right order, bottom ones first to put on the stand where they are going to be painted and when you lift them up one by one to move, mark the code on the back of each one.

MARKING TILES - SMALL DESIGNS

ca: MARCANT RAJOLES - Dissenys petits

es: MARCANDO AZULEJOS - Diseños pequeños

Making on small designs between one and four tiles. Many designs are names of houses so keep your border designs separate from the written part so they can be reused many times. The following photos show one tile, 15×20cm. Make the designs, just the outlines, and print them on to transparent paper and pounce them.


The order of work
1) The border (a) and center part (b) to be marked on.
2) Over a tile with the glaze base prepared, lay the pounced drawing. Making sure that it is placed correctly and that the smooth side is against the tile.
3) With one hand hold it in place and with the other tap the dust bag over the over the pounced lines. (c)
4) Rub the surface with it, covering all the holes so the ash goes through.
5) Lift one corner of the tracing paper (d) to see if it is well marked. Until the marking is finished one hand must always be holding the tracing paper in place.
6) Gradually remove the paper, checking to see that the lines have come out clearly. If not, rub that part again.
7) The tile with the border marked on.(e)
8) In the same way place and mark on the center design making sure not to damage the border. (f-g)
9) The hole design marked on in preparation for painting.(h)

MASK - Respirator

ca: MÀSCARES - Respiratòries

es: MÁSCARAS - Respirator


A potter’s mask is a shield worn on the face, to cover the mouth and nose, to protect, stop and control inhalationiof dangerous products. There are many different types designed for hard industrial work and for ordinary everyday pottery for protection against dust, particles, etc and they are usually disposable and should always be used when spraying, cleaning and preparing ceramic products.

MATTE

ca: MAT

es: MATE

Matte is a glaze that does not shine. There are different grades of shining, matte and semi-matte, act.

MATTING AGENT

ca: ADDITIUS QUE MATISEN

es: ADITIVOS QUE MATIZAN

Matting agents are materials that are added to glazes to produce a matte surface

MATURE

ca: MADUR

es: MADURO

Mature is when a person or product is fully developed. It is used when referring to the degree to which a clay or glaze has vitrified. A ‘mature’ stoneware or porcelain clay is normally one that is dense and strong, a ‘mature’ glaze flows well and heals imperfections to provide a good covering.

MATURING

ca: MADURACIÓ

es: MADURACIÓN

Maturing is when clays and different products are kept in plastic or a damp atmosphere, which is said to help the clay mature. In the past, when one firm did everything from digging up the clay to selling the finished work, ceramic firms kept the clay in local caves for up to two years to mature.

MATURING RANGE

ca: PUNT DE MADURACIÓ

es: PUNTO DE MADURACIÓN

Maturing range: when the clay body or color that is being fired reaches its correct strength and compactness, this is known as the maturing point. If under-fired, it is weak and porous and when tapping it to check that it is not broken, the sound is flat. If over-fired, it can be very brittle and when being fired it can break down completely into a molten state in the kiln.

MEASUREMENT

ca: MESURA

es: MEDIDA

Measurement is the exact size and applies to heat, liquids, solid objects, etc.

MEASURING

ca: MESURAMENT

es: MEDICIÓN

Measuring is the process of ascertaining the extent, dimensions, or quantity of something; heat, liquids, solid objects, etc.

MEASURING CUPS

ca: TASSES DE MESURAR

es: TAZAS DE MEDICIÓN

Measuring cups are used to measure quantities of liquids and powders.

MEASURING JUGS

ca: RECIPIENT MESURADOR

es: RECIPIENTE MEDIDOR

Measuring jugs are industrially made in plastic or glass and can be used for measuring different substances, liquids, sugar etc. The height of the weight or the quantity of liquid of a product is marked on to the outside. In other words, if ½ a kilo of sugar fills up 8 cm in the jug, this height is marked onto the jug. It can then be used for measuring quickly and roughly.

MEASURING SPOONS

ca: CULLERES DE MESURAR

es: CUCHARAS DE MEDICIÓN

Measuring spoons are used to measure small quantities when mixing colors and other ceramic ingredients. A Beam Balance is much more exact.

MEDIUM

ca: DILUENT

es: DILUYENTE

Medium is a liquid added to colors to make them more fluid for decorating pottery. It helps the colors to run well and makes their application easier. It is a vegetable product and burns away when fired. The technical word for this is Polyethylene glycol.

MELT

ca: FONDRE

es: DERRETIR

Melt is to force the transition of a solid substance into a liquid by heat. This can happen with clay when over-fired.

MELTING POINT

ca: PUNT DE FUSIÓ

es: PUNTO DE FUSIÓN

Melting point is the temperature at which heat turns a solid product into a liquid.

MESH

ca: MALLA

es: MALLA

Mesh applies to the spaces left between the crossings of the fibers in a woven fabric. It is measured by threads per centimeter, the more it has, the finer the mesh. In pottery, sieves are used to strain powders and liquids and can be bought with different sized mesh, 40 being the largest and 200 very fine. See: Lawn and Sieve.

MICRONS

ca: MICRES

es: MICRONES

Microns are particle sizes in clays, glazes or slips that form in a uniform way.

MILL

ca: MOLÍ

es: MOLINO

Mill: Machines to grind and mix different products. They work with electricity and there is a large variety, all of which have special names. Under each heading there is more information
Ball mill: for grinding glazes and materials for colors.
Pug mill: is a machine to mix and extrude clays, it is a mechanical way of kneading and wedging.
Clay blunger: for mixing clay with water.

MOCHA

ca: MOCA

es: MOCA

Click on the title to see more images

Mocha decoration is a technique where a liquid that contains tobacco juice mixed oxides is applied onto a surface prepared with a coat of wet freshly applied slip. It creates organic patterns, which stays after being fired. Touch the base with a brush full of the mixture and it will spread rapidly outwards in a circular design that grows as more mocha tea is applied to the same place. It creates a fern type pattern as a decoration.

A formula for decoratin moca:
10 grs of tabaco (cigars)
100 ml of destilled water
Boil for 15 minutes
Leave it cool, squeaze the tabaco, seeve it and add oxides

These photos were taken by Nuria Pié.
Link to Studio and Shop of Nuria Pié.

MODELING - Boards

ca: FUSTES - Per modelar

es: MADERAS - Para modelar


Modeling boards come in different sizes and shapes and they are smoothly finished off and are used to hold the clay while working with it. When used as a tray, to move work form one place to another and to leave pieces to dry off, they allow you to move work without touching it.

MOLD:

ca: MOTLLE:

es: MOLDE:

A mold is an inlaid copy of an object and can consist of one or many sections and is used to reproduce work in clay or clay slip. In pottery, molds are used to reproduce many products, plates, jars, statues, etc. A mold is filled with slip or clay and left to dry. When dry, they are separated and you have a copy of the original object, which is known as a cast. Molds are important in pottery as they can produce special pieces, quicker and more accurately, that could not be made by hand.

MOLDS: THE BASIC WAY OF WORKINGWITH A MOLD OF ONE PIECE
1) Make in clay the shape you want to make the mold.
2) Put it on a wooden bat and around it build up a wall, with wooden boards, slabs of clay, sheets of rubber or plastic.
3) Leave a space of 3cm between the wall and the clay object, which is the width of the wall of the mold once cast.
4) This size depends on the size of what is being made; the larger it is the stronger the walls must be.
5) Where the sections of the walls join each other or the bat, they must be sealed firmly together with coils of clay on the outside and inside. The inside joints are smoothed off so the mold will have even surface
6) Prepare the plaster: In a bucket put the amount of water needed for the mold you are going to make. Tip the plaster slowly into it and leave it for a few minutes so they can integrate.
7) With your hand, wearing a plastic glove or a large strong wooden spoon, stir it slowly so it becomes smooth, without any lumps. While doing this you will notice that the viscosity of the liquid is thickening.
8) When it is like cream, pour it slowly into the mold, over the object, filling every corner, until the lair on top becomes thick enough to form a strong floor.
9) When the plaster has hardened, take off the walls, turn it upside down and remove the bat and then the clay. Level off any rough parts then smooth and clean it with a damp sponge.

Note: The following sections on molds cover the different way of using them to form different objects.

MOLD: 1 Press molds

ca: MOTLLE: 1 de premsa

es: MOLDE: 1 Moldes de prensa

PRESS MOLD: is a conclave space in the form of a plate and the clay is pressed into it.
HUMP MOLD: is a shape formed outwards and the clay is laid over it. They are usually made with a handle, to make separating it from the clay easier.
Remember: Remove it as soon as possible from the mold as the clay will shrink and it will break.

General rules on using the above molds:
a) Knead the clay well so it has smooth, even consistency and has no air bubbles
b) On a cloth roll out the clay to the height, width and length needed to cover the mold completely.
c) Put the mold as near as possible to the clay.
d) Pick up the clay, with the cloth, holding it flat between both hands and lay it over or into the mold, remove the cloth. The cloth helps to stop the clay deforming while being moved. Do not hold it between your fingers, as with the weight of the clay it will stretch and become narrower in parts and your fingers will also leave indents.
e) Smooth and press it with a rubber kidney so it takes the shape of the mold.
f) Cut off the edges using a very tautly held cutting wire, then smooth them out and leave it to dry.
g) Separate the clay from the mold when it is leather dry. Turn the right way up, tidy it and leave to dry out completely, it can now be decorated or fired.

MOLD: 2 Pips

ca: MOTLLE: 2 Puntes

es: MOLDE: 2 Puntas

Click on the title to see more images

In the photo there are two pips, the big one was industrially made and the small one molded from it. They are in front of a pen drive to show how small they are.

Pips are very small pieces of kiln furniture used for supporting plates, jars and all objects that have a base completely flat and have to be glazed.

An industrially made pip was glued to the end of a wooden pole, to give it a handle to work with; b) and c)

White clay was rolled out and made into a circle 15cm wide and 3cm high, then the pip is indented into it many times; d) e) f) and g)

The clay is left to dry and then fired. In the illustration i) the mold is next to a tape measure, to show the size.

The last photo j) shows a bowl full of pips, you will see that some have a circle indented into the base. They are the ones industrial made.

ILLUSTRATIONS
a) The top photo shows two pips in front of a pen drive so you can see how small they are. The big one is industrially made and the small one was molded from it.
b) A wooden pole and the industrially made pip
c) The pol and pip glued together
d) The white clay being indented
e) The white clay being indented
f) The white clay being indented
g) The white clay being indented
h) The indenting finished.
i) Measuring the mold
j) A bowl full of pips

TO USE THE MOLD
Fill up the pip indents with clay.

To remove them, hold s small bit of clay and touch them with it, it should stick enough so the pips can be pulled out or they can be left to dry and when the clay shrinks they can be lifted out. Stand them on a bisque tile to dry, when dry use the tile as a tray and move them into the kiln to be fired.

USING THE PIPS
I the piece being fire has a footing that has been cleaned of glaze, put this part on top of the pips. If they a glued to the surface after being fired, hold the work with the left hand a sharply twist the pip with the right to separate them. It always leaves a small mark in the glaze.

If the point of the pip is damaged or has glaze, file it down.

Floors that are flat and clean of glaze can be put directly on to a shelf in the kiln but if they have to be signed leave enough glaze-base for signature and clean off each corner so the pips can support it.

If using transfer’s do it in the same way but in the two firings, first the glaze and then a transfer of your sign or your signature.

MOLD: 3 Cottel

ca: MOTLLE: 3 Làmines

es: MOLDE: 3 Láminas

Mold cottle is made out of pliable plastic and can be cut to any size, height and length. It is used to form a circular wall of the size required, round the outside of what is going to be cast.

MOLD: 4 Made with bars of wood

ca: MOTLLE: 4 Fet amb barres de fusta

es: MOLDE: 4 Hecho con barras de madera

MOLDS – Building them up with bars of wood and clay
If you need a simple mold that will only be used a few times, then it is worth doing it yourself, but if it is going to be used a lot and you need 4 or 5 units of the same mold, or it consists of two or three pieces, then it is worthwhile having it made professionally.

The general rules for molds:
Place whatever you want to make a mold of onto a large, movable wooden board. Calculate where you want to put the outer walls, which can be built up either in wood or clay. The size and strength of the walls of the mold are in relation to the length, width and height of the object to be copied. The bigger the piece, the bigger and stronger walls should be. When designing the object you want to make a mold of in clay, bear in mind that the clay will shrink by about 5% and ensure that the pieces will fit into your kiln.

Building with wood:
Needed: A wooden board to make the mold on, small planks of wood, clay, a large bucket, plaster of Paris and bleach.
Method: Build up the outer walls using the planks of wood. Put a thin layer of clay between all the parts that have to be joined and force them together. Fill up all joints, inside and outside, with clay, level them out and round off the corners. Before making the mold, paint the inside with bleach mixed with clay. This will make the separation of the plaster easier.
Building up with clay:
Needed: Plank of wood to make your mold on, battens, rolling pin, clay, large bucket and plaster of Paris.
Method: Roll out a slab of clay to the desired thickness, cut it into strips to the width needed for the height of the walls. Stand it up and put it round what you are going to make a mold of, leaving enough space, height and widthwise to form the mold. Join the ends of the wall when they meet. Put a coil of clay round the inside and outside where the different parts join, especially walls, floor and corners and push it in and round it off. This will strengthen and hold the walls in place and stop plaster from escaping underneath.

Plaster of Paris: Put water into a bucket and add the plaster, stirring all the time to get rid of lumps. In about 3 minutes it will start to thicken. When it gets to the right thickness and is like a thick heavy cream, pour it over the prepared clay. Let it spread round and up to the height of the walls, pouring slowly so it enters into all the small spaces and also avoids putting too much pressure on the walls. When full, level out the top and leave it to dry.

To separate mold and clay: Take the walls off and turn it the right way up. Pull out the clay and when separated, wash and clean each part of the mold. Scrape off any bits of plaster that have run under the clay and formed rough edges. Name and number each piece clearly with paint.

MOLD: 4a Two or more pieces.

ca: MOTLLE: 4a de dues peces o més

es: MOLDES: 4a De dos piezas o más

Click on the title to see more images

Molds of two pieces or more:
The making of a two-piece mold of a cylinder is described here, and the same procedure can be followed if more sections are needed. They can be used for jars, figures etc. The most difficult part is calculating the measurements, as clay shrinks when it dries and when fired. If the measurements have to be exact, like a tile 15 × 15cm, then one or two should be made, so the measurements can be calculated.

Make a cylinder in clay, mark a line, lengthwise, all the way round the center and then put it on top of the board of wood where the mold is going to be made and leave it to dry. Build up a clay wall right round the cylinder, to the height of the line and make a rectangle to the width needed for the mold. The damp clay will not adhere to the dry clay of the cylinder

a) Cylinder of clay
b) Wooden wall round clay wall
c) Clay wall round the cylinder
d) Wooden floor board

Building with wood: Round the clay build up walls with wood, to the height required to cover the cylinder at the top with plaster and to make a thick, strong floor. Clay must be put between the joints of the pieces of wood, to hold them together and stop the plaster running. Brush the inside with bleach plus clay.
Prepare the plaster and fill the mold to the top; level it out and leave to dry.
Take off the walls and floor, turn it round and put it back on to the wood so it is standing on the plaster. Take off the clay, which is now at the top, leaving the dry clay of the cylinder uncovered. Indent a small hole in the four corners of the plaster.

a) Wooden board
b) Solid plaster turned round
c) Clay to be taken off
d) Clay cylinder
e) Holes made in the plaster

Now repeat the previous procedure, building up the four walls with wood against the first half that is now solid to the height needed for the floor on top of thecylinder, fill this space with prepared plaster and leave to dry.

Drawing below: mold finished.
Take off the wood and separate the two halves of the cylinder and take out the clay; separate and clean the plaster and you have your mold in two pieces. The holes at the corners have made four small protruding legs on the second part, so when the two halves are put together they will fit correctly and be held in place.

MOLD: 5 Hand made cranks

ca: MOTLLE: 5 Caselles dentades fetes a mà

es: MOLDE: 5 Casillas dentadas hechas a mano

MOLDHAND MADE SMALL CRANKS FOR TILES
These cranks are made to be used in pairs of any required size. They must be a size easy to hold, as both sides are separated and have to be moved together. These are made to hold from 2 to 6 tiles. They are useful for filling up small spaces in the kiln and to support tiles of odd measurements. If made in stoneware and fired at a high temperature they will be stronger and last longer than if made in earthenware. With an electric tile cutter, cranks can be cut down and filed.

These illustrations show cranks of different sizes being used.

THE WOOD NEEDED TO COMPLETE THE MOLD.
The wood should be sandpapered and varnished to protect it from the dampness of the clay. The clay has to be taken out before it is dry, as it will shrink in every direction and break. The mold was designed to solve this problem so it is completely dismountable, each part can be taken out separately. Work out the measurements you need, taking into account the sizes of the tiles you use in relation to the shrinking of the clay when drying and firing.

1) 5 separate pieces of wood for the mold. a) 2 side walls, b) 2 end walls c) the floor.
2) A finished crank in relation to the mold.
3) The wood added to make separate cranks d)

MOLD: 6 For work in relief

ca: MOTLLE: 6 Per treballar en relleu

es: MOLDE: 6 Pra trabajar en relieve

Click on the title to see more images

Molds for working in relief are made with a flat back that can be attached to walls and thus be used for architectural decorating. It can be in one or more pieces and at the same or different levels.
Make the design as simple as possible. The photos are of numbers made for the outside walls of a housing estate. The back consists of 6 pieces that will be attached to the wall, and then the numbers are glued on to it. It is designed so that the back can be increased and decreased in size to hold any amount of numbers. In all there are 16 molds, 6 for the back and one for each number, 0 to 9.

The following nine illustrations
a) Number 5 in clay prepared to make a mold
b) The mold of number 5
c) The clay formed with the mold
d) Numbers and background formed in clay
e) Numbers and background fired
f) Mold for a border
g) Mold for a tile 20×20cm
h) Mold to make a Cupid
i) Tiles with Cupids attached which were cast with the mold as in (h

Photos and work by (f) to (i) by Nuria Pié

To use the mold, make the clay into an oval piece roughly the length and width of what is being made. Put it into the mold and push down and into the corners, gradually filling it all up. Keep pressing the clay down so as not to leave air holes. When full, smooth and press it down using a rolling pin, then scrape away any surplus clay by resting a thin metal bar from wall to wall and pulling it across, scraping off all the surplus clay.

To take it out, first take a small ball of clay and go round the edges where the plaster and clay join, touching the joints and pulling upwards. This helps to loosen the clay from the plaster. Then lay a piece of wood over the mold, turn it and tap it until it comes out.

MOLD: 7 Frame

ca: MOTLLE: 7 Bastidor

es: MOLDE: 7 Bastidor

Mold frames are four pieces of wood the same size with flat metal hooks at one end, to attach one wall to another and form a square or rectangle. They are used for building up molds and forming clay into squares.

MOLD: 8 Clay cutting

ca: MOTLLE: 8 De tall

es: MOLDE: 8 De corte

Click on the title to see more images


1) Roll out the clay to the heights required.
2) To dry it off, lay it out on a flat surface, on top of newspaper.
3) Cover it with a large flat piece of wood, which stops it from warping while drying.
4) These are two molds for cutting out shapes, 15cm wide and the walls are 8cm high. They are made to fit together and form patterns.
(5) Put them on top of the clay and push down through it, so it cuts out the shape.
6) They are lifted up and with damp piece of foam plastic, smoothed all the rough parts down.
7) Lay them out on top of newspaper and leave them until the clay is dry.
8) Cover them by throwing a white opaque glaze-base over in the same ways as for preparing tiles.
9) Clean the side and backs.
10) Decorate them with designs and colors remembering they can be put together and laid out in different waus.
Designed and made by Natalla Galera

MOLD: 9 For tiles

ca: MOTLLE: 9 Per a rajoles

es: MOLDE: 9 Para azulejos

a) MOLDS: For tiles.
b) Walls: 4 bars of wood to form the walls, of the height required for the tile and the length also, plus the parts for joining and overlapping. These walls must have an inlet at each end, so they can be joined firmly together and form the exact measurements required for the tile, taking shrinkage into account.
c) Floors: are two square pieces of wood; one is to put the tile on while being made and the other to put on top to turn it over, so you can check that it is correctly filled up and to allow the clay to dry at the same speed on both sides, to avoid warping.

Clay and rolling pin.

1) Lay the clay into the frame, pushing it into every corner and flatten it using a rolling pin.
2) With a long, straight tool like a ruler, scrape off the surplus clay. When the ruler touches the opposite sides of the mold, the clay will be straight
3) Lay the second wooden floor on top.
4) Turn it over, take off the bottom floor, check there is no clay missing on this side and level it off in the same way.
5) It can be left to dry with or without the walls and turn it over several times, in the same way. This is because when flat clay dries and shrinks the outer edges are inclined to bend upwards and turning the clay helps to keep them level.

MORTAR

ca: MORTER

es: MORTERO

Click on the title to see more images

Mortar is a bowl with a pestle. Used for grinding and breaking down materials. They are now made in china but the best are the old ones, which have a pestle with a wooden handle and its head and the bowl are made of stone.

MOSAICS

ca: MOSAICS

es: MOSAICOS

Click on the title to see more images

Mosaics are small, different colored flat stones and tiles that are laid together to form a design. At the time of the Greek and Roman Empire, mosaics were used to decorate floors and wall and to tell stories and historical episodes. Throughout the centuries, Arab countries have used them for architecture, for decorating interiors and exteriors of buildings and in designs forming precise, geometrical decoration for floors, walls and ceilings. Today, Morocco is one of the principal countries for this art. In the 19th century, the Modernistic Catalan architect Gaudi used mosaics to decorate his work, ceilings, columns, statues, etc., using irregular shapes and sizes of every color and pieces of different materials, such as china, glass, bricks or stones. The follow two photos are to show different mosaic styles.

Nº1 – Nº4: Antoni Gaudí, the terrace wall of Park Güell in Barcelona.
Nº5: Number 3 The shape was formed refractory, fired at 860º C, the plant was then painted and fired at 1280ª C. The mosaics are green glass cut down and glued on.

“These photos have been lent by:
Nuria Pié
Toni cumella
Susan Mussi

MOSAICS - How to work

ca: MOSAICS - Com treballar

es: MOSAICOS - Cómo trabajar

Click on the title to see more images

Artist; Cleo Mussi. All her work is made out of pieces of unwanted or broken pottery, plates, jugs, tile, statue, etc.; it is very personal and individual; she creates small designs for private houses and also large installations for public buildings.

The first section is a synopsis with photos on how to work and the last six ones
are to show a cross section of her work.

Steps for mosaic making mosaics
1) Lay out all your materials,
2) Using the tile nippers begin to cut out regular and repeating shapes using the patterns that you find within the ceramic designs. Experiment with shapes, scale color and pattern.
3) Lay your design out onto the tile.
4) When the design is complete cover another tile with a thin layer of 2-3 mm of ready mix tile adhesive.
5) Transfer your design from one to another, pressing each one sharply into the adhesive.
6) Allow your tile to dry for 24 hours in a warm place
7) Wearing rubber gloves, add a cup of tile grout into a plastic container and add a small quantity of water gradually mixing to make a thick paste like cake mixture.
8) Push the grout mixture into the gaps of the ceramic, making sure it connects to the edges of the pieces.
9) Wait a few minutes, and using an old nail brush, clean off the excess grout which should come off as a wet powder.
10) Using an old towel, polish off the remaining grout and your mosaic tile will be finished.

MOTTLED

ca: CLAPEJAT

es: MOTEADO

Click on the title to see more images

Mottled or spotted referred to colors which were somehow damaged and stained, it was a defect. But since the mid-nineteenth century, ceramics started to be produced, characterized by a mottled brown glaze. Later it was improved by a technique of applying a glaze, sprinkle with spots of oxides to give a mottled effect in blue, brown, black, etc. Today commercial glazes are sold prepared with this effect.

Photos by Jordi Marcet and Rosa Vila-Abadal

MUG

ca: TASSA

es: TAZA

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Mug: vessel to drink out of, with straight sides and with or without a handle. This one below is decorated with a Victorian transfer, showing an old steam train that goes right round the mug, also known as a beaker.